Champagne Pierre Gerbais, an acquaintance but recently somewhat forgotten on this page, should be acknowledged here: one of the best producers in the Côte des Bar, precisely from Celles-sur-Ource, a 340-hectare cru that begins 15 kilometers to the south the Burgundy, in which the Pinot nor dominates in principle.

Half of this vintage cuvée is composed of blue grapes, with a proportion of Pinot Blanc, 25 percent Chardonnay and 25 percent Pinot blanc. Harmonious structure, nice acidity - a dignified accompaniment to a menu at the Ristorante Agli Amici 1887.

Especially to a risotto.

It's never too late when the risotto is excellent.