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Champagne Thiénot Vintage 2012 in Frédéric Dupont’s Le Crypto, Reims with
"Put the sweetbreads in the pan. Stir constantly until well blended with the butter. Sprinkle two tablespoons of flour on top. Mix thoroughly. Then slowly add two cups of dry champagne. Let it simmer gently until the sauce thickens.”
I've been heeding this tip from The Alice B. Toklas Cook Book, the classic, for decades, and my fondness for sweetbread, as Toklas writes, leads me regularly to scan the menus for this stuff.
Once again, I found what I was looking for at Le Crypto, Reims, whose chef Frédéric Dupont I can recommend as a specialist in pork chops, risotto and sweetbread.
Certainly, his golden-brown roasted French sweetbread calls for an elaborate search of the wine list. The discovery: Champagne Thiénot Vintage 2012. This wine presents the paradox of power and finesse in an exquisite manner.
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